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This is no longer available so we custom make this in our shop. This hard to find 5 way vacuum connector can be used to replace a worn or deteriorated factory connector you as an alternation you can use it to replace 2 - 3 way connectors where needed.
If you have an early 300SD and your vacuum pump fails, you could find yourself “up the creek without a paddle.” The actual mechanism of the pump is very robust and it hardly ever fails, but not so with the rubber diaphragms inside the pump.
FITS THE FOLLOWING: 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis. Here is a diesel item I have put together that every Mercedes diesel owner should have.
For all 4 and 5 cylinder diesel Mercedes 1969 to 1985 ( Except 190D)
Note: Works only on models that have two vacuum lines coming of the pump cover. I am seeing lots of vacuum pump problems with the older diesels. They are reaching that age regardless of mileage where the pumps are failing right and left.
FITS THE FOLLOWING: ALL 123 and 126 chassis 240D, 300D, 300TD, 300CD, and 300SD 1980 to 1985 with later style vacuum pump (only one line coming out of top). In 1980, Mercedes changed the design of its diesel vacuum pumps.
Fits late model 123 sedans ONLY from 1981 to 1985, such as the 300D. Be sure your gas door lock actuator matches this before ordering! This is a new plastic sealed unit as used on the later models.
If your diesel engine is starting to shut off very slowly or maybe not at all and you know your vacuum system is ok, it may be time to replace the vacuum fuel shut-off valve located at the rear of the injection pump.
When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil filter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings or hose were swollen and would just not stay connected?
This vacuum line is white and is 4 mm in size. It is used on all 107 108 109 110 111 113 114 115 116 123 124 126 chassis. You can use it to replace any hard vacuum line on the engine.
Green top modulators are no longer available NLA. It is difficult even to find good used ones. Hard to believe we still have one. Kent found it hidden away in the shop the other day and fully tested it. The long pin is included and it has a good solft black rubber cap.
Known to fit 1974 to 1976 models. Check picture to make sure it matches the one you are replacing.
GOOD working part as shown. Holds a strong vacuum. This is the newer style that has the serrated clip to hold the rod. BUSTER
WARNING READ CAREFULLY: If your vacuum pump recently broke apart there may be a reason for it other than just a vacuum pump fatigue failure. When these pumps break up inside there is usually a problem with the drive mechanism inside the diesel engine.
Rare find. This was installed on a 300TD brand new only a few years ago (O.E.) and only driven a few thousand miles. You can see from the picture that it could pass for new when detailed out. We will include a new gasket and new bolts.
If you own one of these old W116, W123 or early W126 diesel Mercedes at some point this most likely will happen to you.
Study the picture carefully to see if the small vacuum line connectors are in the same location. Good used condition.
I have chosen to call this a "partial" overhaul kit because full rebuild kits have been NLA for years. However, many of these pumps still need help, so I have assembled this kit to help owners restore some of their lost vacuum output.
Here is an easy DIY tip to repair a broken vacuum hose nipple on your main vacuum line running from the vacuum pump to the brake booster on the older diesel engines. $2TIP
Kent opened this up to make sure the diaphragm is not cracked as you can see below. Check valves appear to be almost new with no oil contamination, so we suspect this is a low-time pump or had a kit installed when they were available.
Kent delivers a very detailed 24 minute video on understanding how this valve works and how to fix it if possible. You will learn how to recognize a valve that is just too worn out to repair. No bleeder valve repair parts are available and there is not way to DIY fix one if it is badly damaged.
The VCV valve controls the critical shifting patterns of most diesel automatic transmissions from 1978 to 1985. This includes the 1978 to 1985 300SD, the 1980 to 1985 W123 300D, 300CD and 300TD and the 1980 to 1983 240D.
Maybe your non-turbo automatic shifts just a little too early or a little too late? Maybe your turbo diesel transmission jerks a little too much or flares during shifts?
This is a critical part of the throttle linkage and controls transmission shifting and EGR valve operation. These parts are often missing or have been all messed up. This will be a good start to get your vacuum system back in the correct working order.
Kent will explain the theory of operation in simple terms, why it is so important for proper transmission shifting performance, and how to test it hooked up to the engine's vacuum system with the engine running.
If your early door lock actuators do not have any cracks in the rubber diaphragms, but they just won't hold vacuum - it may be possible to fix them by taking them apart and cleaning and resealing the outer lip of each diaphragm.
Three-way fittings are still soft. Includes damper and one orifice as shown.Take a close look at the condition:
These instructions will walk you through removing and reinstalling your pump from the engine, inspecting and opening the pump, mounting the pump, removing, inspecting and reinstalling the pump piston, installing new seals, check valves and cover plate.
W126 vacuum door locks on the 1981 to 1991 380SE 380SEL 300SD 500SEL 300SDL 420SEL 300SE, 300SEL 560SEL 350SD and 350SDL are prone to problems. For starters the systems are getting old, and with age comes common leaks and failed actuators.
Here is a great way to save some money repairing your old Mercedes vacuum door lock actuators. When they go bad it is almost always due to cracks in the rubber diaphragms. These can be easily replaced once you remove your door panels and remove the units.
If you need more than one just change the quantity in your shopping cart. If you would like to order the kit look below.
These five page step-by-step illustrated instructions will walk you through the correct procedure of removing your old worn and cracked door lock rubber diaphragms from the actuator housing and replacing them with new ones. These are procedural instructions only.
Until now there has been no practical information for the DIYer to know how to test and replace their own vacuum 3/2 valve assemblies.
Downloadable PDF is 10 pages and includes step by step instructions and detailed photos to help you complete this job.
Diagnose door lock problems on 1977 to 1985 240D 300D 300CD 300TD 280E 280CE. For all 123 chassis cars with vacuum door locks from 1977 to 1985. Now you can finally fix those pesky vacuum door locks yourself!
ONLY ONE LEFT. Good used activation rod and plastic clip as shown. Controls travel of vacuum control valve on the top rear of the injection pump. A plastic clip can easily break. May be some slight wear on the end of the metal rod but still usable.
This is the new Bosch plastic upgrade to replace the old metal style fuel stop solenoid or shutoff valve. This is located on the top rear section of the injection pump (right under the intake manifold). Sorry, no instructions included but it is a straight forward replacement.
Until now there has been no practical information for the DIYer to know how to test and replace their own vacuum 3/2 valve assemblies. There certainly been no inexpensive hose replacement kits. This new kit by Kent Bergsma solves both those problems.
I have never been impressed with the rubber vacuum hose found on older Mercedes diesels. I don't think the engineers ever anticipated how much abuse or how long these hoses would need to last!
Two replacement levers as shown. NOTE: Often the valves are still ok but the lever is worn off.
Complete kit for the DIY mechanic. Includes repair parts, special tools and step-by-step illustrated instructions.
When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil filter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings were swollen and would just not stay connected? This is a L shaped fitting that fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.
When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil filter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings were swollen and would just not stay connected? This is a Y shaped fitting that fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.
When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil filter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings were swollen and would just not stay connected? This is a U shaped fitting that fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.
Fits the following: All W116 W123 and W126 Chassis Diesels from 1977-1985. This is a brand new Genuine Mercedes Steering lock vacuum shut-off valve that is located on the back of your ignition lock assembly. We include 2 pieces of correct sized rubber vacuum hose as shown.
This is that little vacuum valve that always gets it nipples broken off... It is located right behind your thermostat housing on the 1981 to 1985 turbo diesel engines. It controls vacuum going to your EGR valve.
Applies to 240D 300D 300CD 300TD 300SD Diesel This guide is written specifically for owners of 123 and 126 diesels from 1977 up to 1984. There are some sections that apply to the 115 and 116 chassis but it is not specific to those models.
This is a brand new 3 way Vacuum change over valve. It is located in the engine compartment on a number of different chassis Mercedes, both gas and diesel models, from the 70s up through the late 90s.
FITS ALL 123 chassis cars from 1977 to 1985 and ALL 126 Chassis cars from 1981-1991, both Gasoline and Diesel models! If you are not sure of your application just pop your hood to see if you have one inline on the drivers side of the engine compartment.
FITS THE FOLLOWING: all 123 chassis coupes, sedans, and wagons from 1981-1985 right front door and both back doors. New OEM door lock actuator (element) for replacing the leaking one that is keeping your door locks from working properly.